Lab-Grown Meat Has a Bigger Problem Than the Lab

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Leading scientists agree that cultured meat products wonโ€™t give you cancer, but the industry doesnโ€™t have the decades of data to prove itโ€”so itโ€™s trying to avoid the question instead.

If you avoid meat to cut down on animal crueltycarbon emissions or both, your options are a lot better than they were a decade ago, which is to say theyโ€™reโ€‰โ€ฆโ€‰fine. For people who can afford to pay a premium, veggie burgers and nuggets from the likes of Beyond Meat Inc. and Impossible Foods Inc. are a much tastier option than the average imitation-meat entrees of the past. What they arenโ€™t, though, is meatโ€”and many such products are so packed with salt and saturated fat that they probably shouldnโ€™t be a staple of most diets. There is, however, another option on the way for those in search of better guilt-free protein: growing meat from cells in a lab, without raising any living animals for slaughter. Yes, really.

Thank the biotech revolution. Under the right conditions, animal cells can be grown in a petri dish, or even at scale inย factories full of stainless-steel drums. For decades, companies such asย Pfizer Inc.ย andย Johnson & Johnsonย have cultured large volumes of cells to produce vaccines, monoclonal antibodies and other biotherapeutics. Now the idea is that we might as wellย eat these cells, too.

By Joe Fassler

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